If you want to start from the beginning of our Everest Base Camp adventure; Part 1 Part 2 Part 3

“Life is either a daring adventure or nothing at all.” ~ Helen Keller

I woke at 4:43am on Oct 9th in need of a washroom and heard the sounds of Jeff’s laboured breathing. He was fully asleep but wheezing and struggling. I hoped he was dreaming about something and would come out of it. He wasn’t, so I found my phone and WhatsApp’ed Bibek, “Bibek we need to get Jeff out here.”. His resting heart rate was 120 and, much to all our shock, his oxygen was 35%. It was 70% at dinner hours earlier.

I got Jeff packed and watched as Bibek and Mangla went into action arranging for a helicopter, getting him out of bed and supporting the long walk to the heli pad. In a little over an hour, Jeff was flying to Lukla then Kathmandu.

Writing this post I found a video I created on this walk behind Jeff, a very emotional video that reminded me how difficult it was to not hop into that helicopter with him. Tears from vows then, 14 hours later, tears from my man being evacuated from Dingboche.

For years we’ve had an agreement to never hold the other back. This agreement is discussed again before we book another potentially dangerous adventure and we have had to enact it a few times. Jeff had to stay at Base Camp due to a knee issue on Mt Acetenango in Guatemala while I climbed to the summit alone (the Guide had to stay with another climber experiencing altitude illness). Then in Borneo, I wasn’t able to do the dangerous sharp pinnacles due to my knees acting up and wanting to save them to complete the full Headhunter Trail.

This time felt different. After 6 days of trekking and 8 days in the Himilayas, Jeff’s trek would now end in a hosptial. Descent would be the end of his mountain journey but not the end of his adventure.

10 years ago I wrote a post, Altitude or Attitude. We travelled to Colorado to do our very 1st major climb in preparation for Mt Kilimanjaro. I learned several of the affects of altitude firsthand on my attempt the first day then made a quick recovery, ‘climb high, sleep low’. My hope was Jeff would have an immediate recovery.

Day 8 – Dingboche to Lobuche (4940m/16,210ft)

And then there was one! We were here in Nepal because this has been my ultimate dream challenge for 12 years, now I was more determined than ever to get to Everest Base Camp and hopefully beyond.

Once Jeff was in the helicopter, I quickly had to mentally recover and get my act together. “Geterdone for both of us Simpson”. I knew as soon as he was in the helicopter that his oxygen would make a quick recovery but my concern was how low it got and how quickly that happened. Before we even left Dingboche, Bibek was able to report that Jeff was starting to feel better and an ambulance was waiting at the airport in Kathmandu to take him to the hospital.

Onward and upward for me.

Today I did a very difficult 7 hour trek from Dingboche to Loboche. All the snowstorms had created a mess on the trails of snow, ice and mud. Many more messy twisty steps to reach our goal.

Bibek and Mangla were doting on me. Nature has this way of turning around a bad or gloomy mood. Focusing on what I could control helped. Before I knew it I was taking in the awe all around me again. For sure Jeff would want that!

We trekked past the Thukla pass and many Sherpa memorials. It was a long but beautiful day.

Arriving at Lobuche, the accomodations seem to be noticeably less hospitable. Is it that I am alone in my room? The cold? The food? Now it begins to feel like suffering but only when I’m in a building. Outside in the mountains fills me with joy.

I am still able to sleep, eat some and drink lots of water and ginger lemon tea. My oxygen is considered normal for this altitude but the cold makes everything so much harder.

Day 9 – Loboche to Gorakshep (5180m, 16,994ft)

Today we head to Gorakshep. I start my day almost as soon as I got outside being kicked by a horse in my quad. Payback for all the selfies I put them in I’m guessing. Fortunately my leg is fine.

We climbed so many mountains today! There was some internal swearing around every bend with the limited oxygen in the air. I was well above where I’ll sleep tonight but that’s also the rule when in high altitude. The scenery is beautiful but it seems to take a long flipping time to get to Gorakshep. I am so curious to see this village in the Himilayas that I’ve read so much about over the years.

For lunch we stop at a famous lonely ‘cafe’ in the middle of the mountains, Thukla Cafe. It reminds me of a ski chalet without any of the nice stuff but the weather and comradery of other trekkers makes it memorable. There are 2 gentlemen from India approximately our age who we’ve spoken to many times on our trek. They ask where Jeff is, and respond that they are also struggling with the affects.

Later in the day I discover their struggles were real. Somehow they knew we wouldn’t see each other again and gave me a celebratory hug and well wishes to Jeff. It seemed pre-emptive but the positive vibes were very encouraging.

I’ve thought of them often since wishing I could know the rest of their story to EBC.

The ups and downs finally result in arrival. After 9 days of trekking I am now at home base for my 2 huge goals – Everest Base Camp and the summit of Kala Pathar.

I am dependent on Bibek’s mobile signal to get updates on Jeff. His oxygen very quickly moved into the 90’s once on lower ground and I’m assured he’s recovering well. The hospital specializes in mountain illness, apparently 6 to 8 people a day have to be emergency evacuated from the mountains. Bibek wonderfully has his brother with Jeff in the event there is a language barrier or sudden turn. I later learn Jeff insisted they limit what they share with me.

Fortunately I am able to get wifi in this location and communicate with Jeff. He is praising the hospital, befirending the mendical staff and loving the food.

The higher you go the less you get as part of the room fee and the more expensive everything is – toilet paper $5 a roll – tissues $10 a pack. When you see the Porter and Yak photos you begin to understand why it should be more expensive. Everything is carried up and this far up isn’t a place many would want to be.

I don’t know how people live up here year round! No heat, no hot water, limited food, it’s not even winter and it’s cold all the time. There are stoves in the congregation room where we all eat but they start them so late you want to be in bed already. Waking in the middle of the night for the long cold walk to a dirty washroom, you really try to talk yourself out of leaving your bed.

Despite the inconveniences, I know I have better conditions than the occupants, Porters and Guides. Trekkers are their livelihood! Not having any business for 2 years during the pandemic brought that home for sure.

We have great privilege in Canada! There are many reasons for gratitude high in the mountains.

Day 10 – Gorakshep to Everest Base Camp (5364m/17,598ft)

Today I wake to a window so covered in ice that I cannot see out, 2 fully frozen Nalgene bottles, my sweaty, slushy hiking boots are rock hard frozen, even my contact lenses froze in saline. Miserable! Alone! Gorakshep is a hell hole – sorry but that was the thought as I was trying to figure out how to begin my day with frozen frigging boots.

First let me say as you go higher the living conditions in the Himilayas become questionable. The trek gets more difficult not just because the natural environment is colder, harsher, less oxygen. It becomes hard to live. The cold is inescapable.

I put on 2 puffer jackets and went to the communal room in hopes of finding some warmth. Nope! Grumpy and not excited.

Breakfast consisted of a ginger lemon tea and a rotten boiled egg. Bibek asked why I wasn’t eating my breakfast, I put the egg near his nose. Yikes, thankful I still had a few protein bars left that I brought from Canada.

Normally friendly, I was really not wanting to interact with anyone in the communal area. I notice that the room here is so much quieter than all the others have been so far. It’s usually easy to engage. I suspect they are all feeling the same ‘pain’ I am in this moment. I just want to get outside and hike but that means I have to jam my feet into frozen boots, There is absolutely no way to thaw them out.

The tea starts to warm my insides, the bland porridge fills my belly and the sun started to melt ice on the windows. I do not know how these villages manage this fulltime, they are not spoilt Canadians that’s for sure.

This should be one of the happiest days of my life! Today I hit a major, ultimate, lifetime goal and trek to Everest Base Camp (EBC). Today I get to see and walk on the Kumbhu Icefall. Today I get to stand atop the boulder in the valley of all the biggest mountains in the world. Today I walk the same trails of my mountain heroes. This should and will be a happy day once I get outside.

So I do, and as soon as I’m in the sun, I feel no pain, just elation.

Finally outside, bundled up and eager to hike, my attitude makes an immediate an abrupt change for the better. If Jeff was here I don’t think I would’ve gone to a bad place but it’s difficult not having my Adventure Buddy with me. My oxygen is bouncing from 68-72 which is okay for this altitude.

It is a startlingly beautiful day. Clear skies and great views. I realize my grand fortune, some were not able to get here even though they trained and were capable. For those who did, the storms and weather have clouded the mountains for many most of the last week. I am again blessed.

On my trek to EBC, I am fully taking it all in. My layers quickly go down to 1 layer as we climb, climb, climb. There are few on the trails. The top of Everest is in clear view. We even hear an avalanche in the distance but not able to see it. There are several a day I’m told.

I was surprised to learn that EBC is a good 1000m below where we were climbing all morning. It’s in a valley surrounded by the worlds highest mountains. It must be the best place to park a tent if you have to stay there for 7 weeks training to do the summit of Everest.

Down, down, down to Everest Base Camp (which means Up, Up, Up again later on). The journey reveals the Khumbu Icefall, Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse. Once there, it does seem a bit anti-climactic, there is a huge boulder with lettering, graffitti and signatures. Many memorials. I am by myself with just Bibek and Mangla for a short time. I take a long, deep breathe and take in the 360 gorgeous view.

The effort it took to get here was absolutely worth every step. I am so happy I didn’t put this goal aside as ‘it’s too late’. I am so so happy I worked on building the strength around my knees. It took a couple years but OMG, not a single issue with descent anymore. I am so happy Jeff told me we had to geterdone after success climbing in Vietnam this March. EBC wasn’t on my radar this year but look at me now.

Both Jeff and I achieved this together in so many ways even though he’s not by my side in this moment.

I did it! Just before I turn 63 I hit my ultimate goal and was strong enough to be able to thoroughly enjoy the experience.

Now, the trek back to Gorakshep to do the summit of Kala Pathur. That has also been a part of my goal as well as Jeff and I adding the Chola Pass and Goyko afterward for several more days. I’m dealing with a goal at a time and right now staying in Gorakshep another night is the goal I’m focused on so I can do a sunrise summit.

The trek back to the ‘hell hole’ of Gorak Shep goes well until the last hour. The reverse view of what I had earlier in the morning is a joy to watch. The sun is bright, it’s actually warm. I can’t believe people are passing by me just going to EBC, it’s going to be dark before they get back unless they rush which is hard in this altutude.

As we get closer to the village, I start getting dizzy. Bibek and Mangla keep asking if I’m okay. Like a drunk who doesn’t know it’s obvious they went over their limit, my walking and speaking is being affected. By the time we get back to Gorak my oxygen tests in the 50’s. Bibek looks at me and pauses, he knows I’m going to be disappointed.

I absolutely expected to summit Kala Pathur but it’s not in the stars for me. He says we need to get you down with Jeff again.

I now have mountain illness. I feel slow but I’m not done! Then I recall how you start to make bad decisions, this is what Guides are for, to protect you from yourslef.

“Getting to the top is Optional. Getting down is Mandatory.” ~ Ed Viesturs (my mountain hero who summited 14 x 8000+ metre mountains without supplemental oxygen).

I have altitude illness and am evacuated to a hospital in Kathmandu that specializes in mountain illness. Guess who my room buddy is?

WOW! Goal achieved! No Regrets only Gratitude!

Coming soon – Everest Base Camp – The Aftermath

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